up : dior homme duffle coat
down : Junya watanabe x gloverall duffle coat
Gloverall 역사
1890년 존 패트리지라는 아웃도어 의류 제작자가 벨기에 앤트워프에서 생산되던 더플이라는 섬유로 코트를 만들기 시작했다. 1차, 2차 대전 동안 영국 해군이 사용해 널리 알려지기 시작했는데 전쟁이 끝나고 남은 더플 코트를 1951년 글로버올이 사들이면서 사업을 시작했다.
1954년 런던 세인트 폴 성당 뒤에 위치한 공장에서 더플 코트를 자체 제작하기 시작했다.
더플 [duffle]
천의 표면을 작은 구슬 또는 물결 모양으로 처리한 옥나사(玉羅紗)와 비슷하다. 이전에는 많이 생산되어 18세기 무렵에는 영국에서 미국으로 수출되어 외투천으로 쓰였으나 오늘날에는 그 명칭만이 남아 있다.
The word Duffle originally referred to a Heavy Woollen Cloth closely woven for warmth and manufactured in the Belgian Town of Duffel. However over the years it has come to signify a hooded coat with distinctive toggle fastenings which was adopted by the British Navy and used by officers and men of the watch to protect against the biting Atlantic and North Sea winds. The toggles could be unfastened whilst wearing thick gloves, and hoods were carefully designed to fit over peaked Naval caps.
Photographs of servicemen during the 1914 - 18 war show a duffle type coat. Between the end of World War I and the start of World War II the coat was modified into the traditional Naval Duffle.
Gloverall still maintains this Naval link through the Iconic ‘Monty’ and its application to the service highlighted by its namesake Field Viscount Montgomery and is worn by Jack Hawkins in the film ‘The Cruel Sea’. The design of the latter is a replica of the original retaining its characteristic rope and wood toggling, webbing stays and two piece hood.
In 1951 Harold & Freda Morris who specialised in selling cotton, leather, Gloves and Overalls were approached the by the Ministry of defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. Mr Harold Morris then conceived the name Gloverall.
